TRADE SHOW REVIEW: What You Should Have Shopped at Man NYC
Tightly curated as ever, the Man show was held again in New York last week at sundrenched Spring Studios in Tribeca and featured 65 generally terrific international contemporary brands.
Foot traffic was good at Man and both buyers and press appreciated the convenience of free shuttle cars provided between Man’s venue and Pier 94, more than 50 blocks north, where Liberty and Capsule took place; they made the rather arduous (not to mention cold) journey between the venues and competing yet cooperative shows especially easy this season.
Unlike some of the other menswear shows, key design trends for autumn 2018 were glaringly apparent at the collections shown at Man and sometimes even got a bit repetitive. These included topcoats, clunky shoes/sneakers, simply patterned almost minimalistic knitwear made from extra-sturdy yarns, corduroy’s big comeback (often together with a shearling accent or collar) and rich, traditionally masculine fabrics returning after a few seasons of more feminine ones infiltrating menswear.
In case you missed it (or just want to be reminded of how good some of the stuff shown there was), here’s an alphabetical recap of some of the best brands we saw….
Abraham
This relatively new New York-based line is gender fluid but it hit the men’s topcoat trend smack on the head with its mustard overcoat with a fuzzy shearling collar.
Andersen-Andersen
A Danish knitwear label, Andersen-Andersen is completely on point for the season with its super high-quality sweaters that are often based on traditional military patterns. Many of the drool-worthy men’s jumpers that are featured in the movie “Dunkirk” have their (actually buyable) compatriots here.
Batoner
Another knitwear star of Man, this five-year-old Japanese brand produces sweaters ($107 wholesale) made from anti-pilling wool that are reminiscent of classic and clean Benetton models from the late 1980s, albeit with a Japanese twist.
Brand Black
This young and inventive sneaker brand from Los Angeles continues to impress with thick, chunky-soled models that now often feature Vibram soles.
Druthers
New York-based Druthers, which launched three years ago, continues to impress with its colorful socks and boxer shorts. But new for fall 2018 is a terry cloth robe based on one for professional boxers that is (pardon the pun)…. a total knockout.
Fred Perry
The long-established British mainstay never gets it wrong. But we were especially feeling its camouflage collaboration with military brand Arktis for fall.
Fronteer
Outdoor + Fashion = Complete Freshness continues to be the driving force of this incredible shoe line. It too is suddenly all about the rather chunkier sole/heel.
La Paz
This Portuguese brand just silenced any doubt that corduroy coats with shearling collars will be guys’ must-wears come fall. And, as always, it did it so well…
Nine Lives
This LA-based brand really impressed with its workwear and luxury-inspired outerwear and super-cool denim washes.
Obra
A new sneaker brand from ALIFE founder Arnaud Delecolle, its name means both “construction site” and “work of art” in Portuguese. With its orange safety details it is a bit of the former and sleek look something of the latter. Prices are $120-$160.
Oliver Spencer
Oliver offered another really lovely collection. But just in case you haven’t realized that a corduroy jacket with a shearling collar will be big for fall 2018, here’s yet another reminder….
Rowing Blazers
This new, rather preppy brand explored both the corduroy revival trend and the “millennial pink” one by offering pink blazers made with uber-masculine waxed canvas.
Soulive
A trendy kimono jacket but in traditional Harris Tweed? We love a mash-up!